Making Pepakura work on linux/wine

After needing pepakura designer to unfold some 3d models I had so I could make them for a project and finding out that it wouldnt run on linux/wine for anything, I started tinkering around and discovered that by default, wine doesnt have opengl32.dll registered inside of wine dll registry.

If you go into the settings for wine, the wine configuration tool, then in the dropdown box, type in “opengl32.dll” without quotation marks, then click ok, pepakura designer and all software needing opengl graphics will work flawlessly without any errors or anything.

I figured I would post this since this seems to be an almost unsolvable problem between linux/wine users and pepakura software users.

Edit: After discussing this with a few people, Ive discovered that the issue hasnt gone away with a clean install, here is another opengl32.dll file to add to the one in wine’s windows/system32 folder, just add that in, add opengl32.dll to the libraries under wine’s configuration program, and set your windows version to windows vista in wine’s configuration while your already there.

It should work fine after that.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwYG1PFb3ZByMjRuZlpFN05fU0E

Installing Noobs and all images offline for raspberry pi/rpi2

Ive recently tried setting up noobs so I could dual boot openelec and raspbian, but I dont have any internet attached to the raspberry pi I have atm, so trying to set it up is pretty futile since I found out that they removed most of the images from the noobs images for the offline installers. After a bit of experimentation and messing around, I found out where noobs points to for the online installers and figured I would post it all here.

Here’s the command to download the operating systems image for the newest raspbian for noobs, it has to be done from a linux computer tho, windows wont work, tho mac might, not sure tbh.

wget -r -nH –cut-dirs=2 –no-parent –reject=”index.html*” http://downloads.raspberrypi.org/raspbian/ -e robots=off

Just do that within a blank folder named the same as the os as you wanted, and download the noobs lite installer, then when you extract the noobs lite archive, just put it into the os folder. So you’ll have a folder named Raspbian for raspbian, openelec for openelec, etc, inside of the os folder.

To change to another distro, here’s the full list of all of them, just change the raspbian in that wget line to whatever link you wanted to download.

http://downloads.raspberrypi.org/

Raspbian

http://downloads.raspberrypi.org/raspbian/

Openelec for rpi and rpi2

http://downloads.raspberrypi.org/openelec_pi1/
http://downloads.raspberrypi.org/openelec_pi2/

Open Source Media Center (formally Raspbmc)

http://downloads.raspberrypi.org/osmc_pi1/
http://downloads.raspberrypi.org/osmc_pi2/

And so on and so on.

Edit: You dont need to download the archives and images folders or the stuff in them. If you use the command above, it’ll download the stuff in just the base directory that you wanted to download, then work on downloading the stuff in the archives and images folders, you can just press control + C to cancel when it starts downloading the stuff in those folders, and just delete them.

Water Torch update

I finally semi-finished my water torch, the flame isnt really that big but it works really well for the concept. I say semi-finished because I plan on getting alot more stainless steel pieces to fill the reactor with, then instead of 7 plates, I plan on having like 30 plates to create the gas, which will give a normal sized micro torch flame.

So far, the flame is a little difficult to start until it is heated up and running for 30 secs to a minute, but after it is started, it runs great and Ive used it to weld a few things together already and to silver braze some steel tubing to copper tubing, which it works great for that. The flame in the video below is really small, but still melts steel wire down like nothing, the flame is around 4x as big now due to the plates getting conditioned, and the pwm getting set correctly.

Anyways, here’s the pics and a video:

Photo0813 Photo0815 Photo0816

The frame is made from some angle iron that I welded together, a computer power supply, a water filter that I cut all of the internals out so it was just a hollow container, and plugged the inlet hole in that, and some pvc pipes that are glued together with homemade flash ports in case there’s a backfire in the torch and it gets back into the lines and back to the bubblers. The threads on the flash ports are wrapped in ptfe tape so they can be screwed in and unscrewed without them getting stuck together, so you can use them as fill ports also to refill the water inside of the bubblers and such. When the water in the reactor gets low, I just take the torch and blow really hard into it, which sends alot of the water from the one bubbler into the reactor, filling it back up, then you just have to refill the end bubbler.

Here’s a video of when I first finished it and before anything was conditioned or before the pwm controller was tweaked.

 

Diamond sandwich makes metallic hydrogen

Originally posted on Light Years:

Hydrogen, the most abundant element in the universe, is commonly found as a clear gas. But squish some hydrogen with an enormous amount of pressure and it will turn into a metal, according to researchers at the Max Planck Institute for Chemistry in Mainz, Germany.

Chemists Mikhail Eremets and Ivan Troyan sandwiched hydrogen between two diamonds and compressed it while carefully monitoring the atoms with a set of lasers and electrodes. To apply the pressure, they used a diamond anvil, which is similar to the machines that crush coal with so much force that it turns into artificial diamonds.

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HHO reactor update

I finally got a case for the reactor and got everything built, but it still has alot to be done with it including the bubbler, torch internals (stuffed with bronze wool) and some flashback arrestors in it. I was using tap water to run it instead of distilled water, and I run into one thing with tap water that you dont get with distilled water. Our water has a bunch of iron in it and the reactor tends to pull the iron out of the water, which rusts in the water, then sinks to the bottom, so after a few times of refilling it, which is a year or so of running, you have to dump everything out and refill it with new potassium hydroxide and water, and scrub out everything. That’s not that bad of a tradeoff tho compared to the amount of money you spend in tanks of gas to go the normal route for a small torch.

The reactor casing is made from an old amway water filter I think it was, but it was a massive water filter that says amway on it anyways. The walls on it was 1/4 inch thick and it was frozen solid when I got it, so it can withstand pretty much everything you throw at it, also the seals are completely air tight.

Here’s some pics of the reactor, inside of it, and the torch so far:

Photo0799 Photo0800 Photo0801 Photo0803 Photo0804 Photo0806 Photo0807 Photo0808 Photo0810 Photo0811 Photo0812

Also have a few pics of my little PWM controller that I made to just control the current a little bit, straight DC into the thing pulls too much current and causes things to overheat, but with a pwm controller, the thing actually keeps the current down to a very small portion, and causes the output on the gas to be the same if not a little more.

Edit:

I added a few more parts to it and now it runs great, I added an LF36 water pressure switch that I modified a little to turn up the limit on it to around 5-8 psi, and wired it into the computer power switch, so when too much gas builds up now, it triggers the pressure switch, turning off the power supply and shutting the whole unit down until the pressure goes down. This prevents any pressure building up and leaking into the unit and making it dangerous.

Here’s a pic of the sensor that I used, it came from an old whirlpool front loader washing machine that someone threw away and we got for scrap metal.

LF36_Pressure_Switch_Water_Level_Switch

I still need to go grab the pvc pipes, springs, and hose barbs for everything, but Im very very close to being finished with it. After I get everything in town, Ill have to get some bronze wool from online, pack it into the flashback arrestor, and the torch, then solder everything up. Then Ill have everything good to go and Ill be ready to light the torch and start brazing with it and such.

HHO torch

After finishing up my large foundry/blast furnace, I put it away for the winter due to it being too damp/rainy all the time here, and went onto new projects. The newest addition is a little HHO torch that Ive been working on for the last month or two, which is just a little cutting/brazing/welding torch that runs off of water and a computer power supply/car battery. As soon as I get some PVC pipes and such to make a case for it and bubbler that doesnt leak like a swiss cheese garden hose, Ill try to build a nice case and such for the generator/reactor so everything looks really nice.

You might remember a while back, the “run your car on water scams”, well, I can see there being alot of reasons why that wont work, and honestly, I couldnt give a crap if it worked or not, I dont drive. The car part might or might not work, but the reactor/fuel cell itself, it does work fairly well at breaking apart the water and creating the gasses with it using electrolysis. If the cell is built correctly and use a custom PWM circuit to drive it, it actually does work pretty well. Here’s a pic of my cell and bubbler attached so far.

Photo0798

It’s not the prettiest thing, and I didnt have the nuts attached to the top of the thing in the picture. I had them off to try to fix a little hiccup with the cell, they’re just there to press down on the lid and rubber gasket to create an airtight seal on the container so no gasses or water leak out. I think Im getting around 1-2 litres per minute, but not entirely sure atm, need to create a flash port for the thing, then I can really test it out.

I need to find some bronze wool, and have looked everywhere around here so will probably have to order the stuff online off of ebay or something. The bronze wool, you pack it into little filter things in your gas line, and in your torch, so if the flame goes back into the gas lines, the bronze wool just slows down the flame and cools it down to the point that it just goes out almost instantly, so the flame doesnt actually go any further into the gas line. It just stops the flame in it’s tracks more or less.

The way the reactor works, it sends current through the water between the plates, which causes the molecules of water to split apart and become thier basic elements, hydrogen and oxygen gasses, which are very flammable, so you can use them to power a little torch or whatever. The cool thing is, if you use it for a torch, it’ll heat up metal and melt/weld/braze all kinds of stuff, but if you put the tip at a steep angle, where the flame is just blowing across the metal, you’ll see water vapor actually showing up and condensing on the metal.

The torch I was making, it’s made of some 1/2 inch copper pipe that I found, some pipe fittings, a little brass air regulator, some various air fittings, a mig tip, and a brass quick disconnect that I modified. I dont have any pictures of it yet, mainly because it’s far from being finished bc I need the bronze wool to finish it, and the other parts, but it is slowly coming together. I tried putting the mig tip in the tube coming from the reactor and it does put out a good amount of gas with an 030 in/0.8mm mig tip which you can feel around 2 inches away from the tip still, so I might hammer it down a little to make it a little smaller of a hole so I get everything just right so it just works how it needs to be so it works perfectly.

That’s about it for the HHO torch stuff.

Updates/harbor freight 90 amp flux core welder review

Well, the furnace is put away for winter due to it being so cold/rainy/damp out all of the time, and the sand is frozen almost solid, so you cant really cast anything atm. I finally got a little welder, a little 90 amp flux core welder from harbor freight. It’s actually a really nice welder, but there’s two things Ive noticed so far with it, one, the hose tends to want to droop down where it’s coming out of the welder itself, so it tends to bind the stuff and it causes it to jam a little bit, just put a piece of angle iron or something under it to prop it up, and your good to go. Second, the wire that comes with it, it really sucks, it spatters alot everywhere and doesnt want to stick to stuff for crap, normal stuff, there’s alot less to no spatter usually, and it sticks really well, so less waste trying to create large pools to get stuff to weld together.

I was needing a perfect blower for my furnace, but everything I found was either too underpowered, or too overpowered, which would not create enough air, or creates too much air and about blew out the flames inside of the furnace. After looking around, I found this little 12v wet/dry shopvac that you plug into your cigarette lighter, and I took it home and modified it a little by removing the sock that acts as a filter, so it could get more airflow, and added a pwm controller to it that I use to control the speed of the thing very precisely, so I can control the airflow perfectly to where I need it, and since it’s 12v, I just run it from an old lawnmower battery that I found laying around. The pwm circuit drops the current draw alot, so even after running the little shopvac for hours testing various things, it didnt drain the battery even the slightest.

The newest endeavour is a little water torch/HHO torch that I plan on using to weld stuff together and braze stuff that the mig welder is just overkill for. I managed to collect all of the parts needed including the stainless steel plates and such, but still am having issues with leaking and such, so I will probably take all of the containers and such and toss them, and put everything in pvc pipes with screw on endcaps so everything is more secure.

vegetable oil vs engine oil for foundry furnace

Used MOTOR oil Used COOKING oil
Motor oil is a petroleum product and can pollute the atmosphere with carbon dioxide possibly adding to global warming Cooking oil is “carbon neutral” meaning that it releases no more carbon dioxide into the atmosphere than the plants it’s made from absorb as they grow. Balance is maintained.
Motor oil is toxic and can seriously pollute land and water if spilled on or in it. Cooking oil is edible and biodegradable. While it should not be poured out carelessly it will not destroy the environment.
Used motor oil is easier to ignite (possibly because it may contain some gasoline) and produces a little more heat when burning. Used cooking oil is harder to ignite and keep burning. It also produces slightly less heat when burned.
Used motor oil is considered a toxic waste by the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) so if you spill it while collecting it you could be held liable legally for cleanup costs. Used cooking oil is not regulated as a toxic waste.
Smoke from used motor oil smells like a poorly running truck or other vehicle and could cause cancer with enough exposure. But can’t ANY smoke cause it? Cigarette smoke does also… Smoke from used cooking oil usually smells like a barbecue grill in the outdoor air. But should not be inhaled regularly.
Used motor oil can be stored for months maybe years without problems. Used cooking oil is organic and if stored too long it can become rancid and fungi can begin growing in it.
Summary:
When it comes to waste oil as a fuel there is little difference between motor oil and cooking oil. The results are about the same. The toxicity of used motor oil and the renewable energy aspects of cooking oil are the only major issues. So make your own decision.
 

This was copied from here:

http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/bestfuel03.html

Uranium Chemistry

Originally posted on Special Nuclear Material:

Uranyl peroxide Uranium and its pure compounds are just not readily available to the amateur scientist, element collector, or student in 2008. So what is one to do? Make these materials oneself, of course. (At left is a quantity of home-baked yellowcake.)

This is the inaugural post in what will become a short series, detailing how uranium and various pure compounds can be refined from the brute earth to serve personal needs. There are differences between what is done in industrial mining / milling operations and what can be realistically accomplished in a typical American domicile. There are also differences in the raw materials that could be obtained back in the good old days when our favorite applied inorganic chemistry texts were written (“Borrow a gallon of fuming nitric acid and some glycerin from your science-teacher…”), versus what can be obtained in the paranoid, restrictive world of today. Thus, my approach to…

View original 5,704 more words

Disclaimer

Disclaimer: Author is not responsible for loss of life, limb or property. Author is not responsible for anything. In fact, author is completely irresponsible. I mean, you should see some of the stuff he gets up to. It’s amazing he hasn’t burned the house down yet. Don’t listen to him. Seriously.

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