My little Printrbot Jr assembly kit

Here, Ive collected all of the documents and everything needed to assemble and get your printrbot jr up and running, and comments to really help get those first getting started to get decent prints.

Printrbot Jr. Instructions:

http://printrbot.dozuki.com/Guide/Printrbot+Jr.+Kit+Build/25/1

Printrbot Jr Extruder Instructions (is not included with normal instructions):

http://printrbot.dozuki.com/Guide/Extruder/38/1

I had to take a knife and file down a little bit on the wood in where the hot end goes in so it would fit, and it slides up inside the bottom of the wood extruder parts, then there’s two long screws that go through the wood and into the beveled part of the hot head to keep everything locked into place. It’s kinda hard to see that, so I figured I’d mention how it went.

While assembling everything, you’ll want to check all connections multiple times, and defenitely check the fan so it’s not shorted, short circuits will blow up parts on the circuit board, and is very expensive to fix.

Also, for those saying it only takes around 2 hours to assemble the printer itself either is on some serious speed, or has found a way to control time because it definitely doesn’t go that easily. I can usually just blow through assembly of something in a few hours of what takes most people a week, and this printer took me close to 2 full days to put together.

For those who have the problem of the printer wanting to home to the bottom right instead of bottom left, the X axis wire can be rewired easily using this diagram to fix all of those problems:

http://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/printrbot/jHFB2IXlYOxwWhJs

The easiest software Ive found to use is repetier host, it can be downloaded here:

http://www.repetier.com/download/

or if you prefer to use a laptop and dont feel like needing to have it plugged in all the time to the printer while printing, you can set up a raspberry pi as a print server like I did using octoprint using this method:

https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Setup-on-a-Raspberry-Pi-running-Raspbian

Then just run repetier-host on your laptop to just slice the files into gcode, and save it, then use the web-ui of octoprint to upload it to the raspberry pi. After you get everything set up, I would highly reccommend putting at least 3 layers of the wide blue painter’s tape on the print bed, dont overlap the pieces for each layer, just make it so it’s perfectly flat. For repetier host, there is a setup guide here:

http://printrbot.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Getting-Started-Guide.pdf

but it doesnt show what print size to put in, so here’s the dimensions I used for the printrbot jr and they work perfectly:

X = 140

Y = 114

Z = 102

For temperatures of printing of normal layers and base layer in slic3r settings, I reccommend first layer being 195C and rest of the layers being 190C. Those have given me the best results with the natural PLA cord that you recieve with the printrbot.

After you get all of that set up, make sure the bed is perfectly level with the nozzle, you can do this by just moving the nozzle to the corners and turning the bed levelling screws until the nozzle looks like it’s just touching, but you can just barely slide a piece of paper between the bed and nozzle. After that’s all done, you should be able to plug in the USB cable to the computer or raspberry pi, then plug in the power for the printer. You should hear the sound that it makes when the usb is connected in windows, or in linux, by using the terminal, type lsusb into the terminal and you should see something with 4 capitilised letters, like YUSD or something like that, I forget what it shows atm, but it is something like that. If it doesnt make the sound in windows or show up in lsusb in linux, just unplug the power cord from the printer, and plug it back in. If it still doesnt work, check all of your wiring and check everything in the printer again. The best idea is to wait to put the printrboard circuit board and wiring in the base of the printer until you know everything is working fine.

Another thing to mention is, just let the printer heat up for a few minutes, like 3-5 minutes before starting your prints, and keep the print head off of the board while it’s heating up so it doesnt burn the tape. (it is around twice the temperature needed to boil water) Also, if you start running into one side of the bed, where the edges of the raft or bottom layer of the prints start lifting up and curling the passes, then letting it preheat usually fixes that, and if not, just loosen the bed leveling screws a little bit and it should fix that. It’s usually caused by either the bed not being close enough or the extruder not being warmed up enough.

I think I covered everything I could remember atm, but if I remember anything else, Ill be sure to add it. I hope this helps whoever reads this and is first getting started with the printrbot jr kits.

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