Neva-Clog Model S100 Stapling Pliers

American Stationer

neva clog s100 stapler sm wm

Arguably one of the most successful stapler designs ever, today’s vintage item is the Neva-Clog model S100 plier stapler. Billed throughout the 1930’s as the “first successful portable fastening device ever made”, the model S100 was an extremely high-quality fastener that was widely used in many industries and not just in an office setting. There are many examples of these being used in shops, farms, leather-working, florists, shipping rooms and such which showcases their utility and durability.

The model S100 measures 7.125″ L x 0.875″ W x 4″ H and weighs 10 ounces empty. It is made of polished steel with not a speck of plastic anywhere to be found. It uses special-sized A1000 or L1000 Neva-Clog staples.

A1000 Staples sm wm front and rear views of box of A1000 staples

The S100 was one of the successors to the model 100 which was made from approximately 1926 until 1936. The model 100 was…

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Algonquin Mill Festival 2016

Jim builds a metal lathe!

If you delve deep enough into the dark corners of DIY and metalworking websites, you’ll come across a name that’s either treated with hushed reverence, or outright derision, with very l…

Source: Jim builds a metal lathe!

Makerfaire 2015

here’s what pics from this year’s world makerfaire, taken on my phone/camera.

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I didnt get to take many pics this year, but as you can see the ones I did get, it was still alot of fun. Other person with me took most of the pics this year.

Restore youtube video player to old player

For a while now, Ive been trying to get the old youtube player back because the new one is extremely memory intensive on all browsers and causes freezes, constant crashes, (firefox crashed 10x+ times within an hour when trying to switch between videos and tabs on youtube).

I finally figured out that the problem isnt with youtube, but with thier new HTML5 player that they’re trying to push out, the old flash based player still works fine if you can enable it. Here’s a plugin to enable it so you get the old, fast, non glitchy video player back.

Just install it, it’ll reload all youtube pages automatically and enable only the flash player from then on. Havnt had a single problem with freezing or crashing since.

Making Pepakura work on linux/wine

After needing pepakura designer to unfold some 3d models I had so I could make them for a project and finding out that it wouldnt run on linux/wine for anything, I started tinkering around and discovered that by default, wine doesnt have opengl32.dll registered inside of wine dll registry.

If you go into the settings for wine, the wine configuration tool, then in the dropdown box, type in “opengl32.dll” without quotation marks, then click ok, pepakura designer and all software needing opengl graphics will work flawlessly without any errors or anything.

I figured I would post this since this seems to be an almost unsolvable problem between linux/wine users and pepakura software users.

Edit: After discussing this with a few people, Ive discovered that the issue hasnt gone away with a clean install, here is another opengl32.dll file to add to the one in wine’s windows/system32 folder, just add that in, add opengl32.dll to the libraries under wine’s configuration program, and set your windows version to windows vista in wine’s configuration while your already there.

It should work fine after that.

Water Torch update

I finally semi-finished my water torch, the flame isnt really that big but it works really well for the concept. I say semi-finished because I plan on getting alot more stainless steel pieces to fill the reactor with, then instead of 7 plates, I plan on having like 30 plates to create the gas, which will give a normal sized micro torch flame.

So far, the flame is a little difficult to start until it is heated up and running for 30 secs to a minute, but after it is started, it runs great and Ive used it to weld a few things together already and to silver braze some steel tubing to copper tubing, which it works great for that. The flame in the video below is really small, but still melts steel wire down like nothing, the flame is around 4x as big now due to the plates getting conditioned, and the pwm getting set correctly.

Anyways, here’s the pics and a video:

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The frame is made from some angle iron that I welded together, a computer power supply, a water filter that I cut all of the internals out so it was just a hollow container, and plugged the inlet hole in that, and some pvc pipes that are glued together with homemade flash ports in case there’s a backfire in the torch and it gets back into the lines and back to the bubblers. The threads on the flash ports are wrapped in ptfe tape so they can be screwed in and unscrewed without them getting stuck together, so you can use them as fill ports also to refill the water inside of the bubblers and such. When the water in the reactor gets low, I just take the torch and blow really hard into it, which sends alot of the water from the one bubbler into the reactor, filling it back up, then you just have to refill the end bubbler.

Here’s a video of when I first finished it and before anything was conditioned or before the pwm controller was tweaked.


Diamond sandwich makes metallic hydrogen

Light Years

Hydrogen, the most abundant element in the universe, is commonly found as a clear gas. But squish some hydrogen with an enormous amount of pressure and it will turn into a metal, according to researchers at the Max Planck Institute for Chemistry in Mainz, Germany.

Chemists Mikhail Eremets and Ivan Troyan sandwiched hydrogen between two diamonds and compressed it while carefully monitoring the atoms with a set of lasers and electrodes. To apply the pressure, they used a diamond anvil, which is similar to the machines that crush coal with so much force that it turns into artificial diamonds.

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HHO reactor update

I finally got a case for the reactor and got everything built, but it still has alot to be done with it including the bubbler, torch internals (stuffed with bronze wool) and some flashback arrestors in it. I was using tap water to run it instead of distilled water, and I run into one thing with tap water that you dont get with distilled water. Our water has a bunch of iron in it and the reactor tends to pull the iron out of the water, which rusts in the water, then sinks to the bottom, so after a few times of refilling it, which is a year or so of running, you have to dump everything out and refill it with new potassium hydroxide and water, and scrub out everything. That’s not that bad of a tradeoff tho compared to the amount of money you spend in tanks of gas to go the normal route for a small torch.

The reactor casing is made from an old amway water filter I think it was, but it was a massive water filter that says amway on it anyways. The walls on it was 1/4 inch thick and it was frozen solid when I got it, so it can withstand pretty much everything you throw at it, also the seals are completely air tight.

Here’s some pics of the reactor, inside of it, and the torch so far:

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Also have a few pics of my little PWM controller that I made to just control the current a little bit, straight DC into the thing pulls too much current and causes things to overheat, but with a pwm controller, the thing actually keeps the current down to a very small portion, and causes the output on the gas to be the same if not a little more.


I added a few more parts to it and now it runs great, I added an LF36 water pressure switch that I modified a little to turn up the limit on it to around 5-8 psi, and wired it into the computer power switch, so when too much gas builds up now, it triggers the pressure switch, turning off the power supply and shutting the whole unit down until the pressure goes down. This prevents any pressure building up and leaking into the unit and making it dangerous.

Here’s a pic of the sensor that I used, it came from an old whirlpool front loader washing machine that someone threw away and we got for scrap metal.


I still need to go grab the pvc pipes, springs, and hose barbs for everything, but Im very very close to being finished with it. After I get everything in town, Ill have to get some bronze wool from online, pack it into the flashback arrestor, and the torch, then solder everything up. Then Ill have everything good to go and Ill be ready to light the torch and start brazing with it and such.

HHO torch

After finishing up my large foundry/blast furnace, I put it away for the winter due to it being too damp/rainy all the time here, and went onto new projects. The newest addition is a little HHO torch that Ive been working on for the last month or two, which is just a little cutting/brazing/welding torch that runs off of water and a computer power supply/car battery. As soon as I get some PVC pipes and such to make a case for it and bubbler that doesnt leak like a swiss cheese garden hose, Ill try to build a nice case and such for the generator/reactor so everything looks really nice.

You might remember a while back, the “run your car on water scams”, well, I can see there being alot of reasons why that wont work, and honestly, I couldnt give a crap if it worked or not, I dont drive. The car part might or might not work, but the reactor/fuel cell itself, it does work fairly well at breaking apart the water and creating the gasses with it using electrolysis. If the cell is built correctly and use a custom PWM circuit to drive it, it actually does work pretty well. Here’s a pic of my cell and bubbler attached so far.


It’s not the prettiest thing, and I didnt have the nuts attached to the top of the thing in the picture. I had them off to try to fix a little hiccup with the cell, they’re just there to press down on the lid and rubber gasket to create an airtight seal on the container so no gasses or water leak out. I think Im getting around 1-2 litres per minute, but not entirely sure atm, need to create a flash port for the thing, then I can really test it out.

I need to find some bronze wool, and have looked everywhere around here so will probably have to order the stuff online off of ebay or something. The bronze wool, you pack it into little filter things in your gas line, and in your torch, so if the flame goes back into the gas lines, the bronze wool just slows down the flame and cools it down to the point that it just goes out almost instantly, so the flame doesnt actually go any further into the gas line. It just stops the flame in it’s tracks more or less.

The way the reactor works, it sends current through the water between the plates, which causes the molecules of water to split apart and become thier basic elements, hydrogen and oxygen gasses, which are very flammable, so you can use them to power a little torch or whatever. The cool thing is, if you use it for a torch, it’ll heat up metal and melt/weld/braze all kinds of stuff, but if you put the tip at a steep angle, where the flame is just blowing across the metal, you’ll see water vapor actually showing up and condensing on the metal.

The torch I was making, it’s made of some 1/2 inch copper pipe that I found, some pipe fittings, a little brass air regulator, some various air fittings, a mig tip, and a brass quick disconnect that I modified. I dont have any pictures of it yet, mainly because it’s far from being finished bc I need the bronze wool to finish it, and the other parts, but it is slowly coming together. I tried putting the mig tip in the tube coming from the reactor and it does put out a good amount of gas with an 030 in/0.8mm mig tip which you can feel around 2 inches away from the tip still, so I might hammer it down a little to make it a little smaller of a hole so I get everything just right so it just works how it needs to be so it works perfectly.

That’s about it for the HHO torch stuff.